Hello & welcome to April!

It's transitioning to Djeran in the Noongyar calendar - the time of year when the weather cools, and cooler nights bring dew in the mornings.  We hopefully will begin to get some rain and traditionally weather and wind patterns change.  I'm sure you've experienced the chillier mornings; although the days and evenings have still been warm!  We hope you had an enjoyable Easter?  Being closed for a couple of days over the break, we were happy to get into the garden and begin to set ourselves up for Autumn/Winter growing - building new garden beds and a trellis.  We will be documenting some of it in videos along the way so keep an eye on our socials!

Early next month the Perth Garden & Outdoor Living Festival returns to Langley Park in the city.  GLSC won't be there this year; but if you're looking for a lovely day out it's worth a visit.  Tickets are available online here. 

With lots of worrying new pets in our gardens (think Chilli Thrip & Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer!) I'm pleased to say there's SOME good news - the Ag Department is pleased to announce that the Queensland Fruitfly outbreak recorded last year appears to have been controlled - WA is once again QFF free!  This is great news for all of us growing fruit & vegies and a reminder that it certainly pays to be vigilant and report things that you think may be a new pest or disease.  A reminder that the MyPest Guide App is FREE and a very useful tool.  

Speaking of other useful tools; I'd like to share another.  The Hort Innovation Fund, in conjunction with two universities, have a website/guide available - which is now FREE to the public to use - to help you plan for our hotter and drier climate and select appropriate plants for various garden scenarios.  If you're looking at putting in new trees to help cool your property and/or to replace garden plants that may have not survived our summer, I'd encourage you to have a look at the website and spend some time checking out the database.  The site is called 'Which Plant Where'.  Click on the link & have a look!

Earlier today Paul & I did a talk at the Midland Friendly Garden Club...  a lovely bunch of people!  It was kind of scary to us so many members of a local garden club did not know of our existence - obviously we have some work to do!!  So please don't be shy about telling your friends, family & colleagues about us.  We're here to help Perth (and WA folks) have success in growing so please help spread the love!!  We hope we'll see you soon at GLSC topping up your garden for Autumn planting - it really is the perfect opportunity to revamp garden beds and get growing!

Happy gardening,

The Team @ The Green Life Soil Co

PS.  We will be CLOSED for the ANZAC day public holiday - Thursday, 25th April.

Jobs in the April Garden 

• Keep up the watering.  Until the rains start, keep an eye on your soil moisture.  Cooler nights and dew may mean you can cut back on your retic, but the days are quite warm and some plants will still need a regular drink.  
• Feed your fruit trees!  Deciduous trees have a small window before they go dormant where they can store nutrients in readiness for Spring.  A light topdress with compost, aged manures or a complete fertiliser (we love Growsafe!) will be beneficial.  Evergreens like Citrus will also benefit.  Sometimes Citrus go a bit yellow in the cold months - which is their reaction to the temperatures; winter is not the time to feed them as they can't get the benefit.  Feed them now, and again in Spring once the weather's a little warmer.
• Keep an eye on your citrus (particularly Lemons) for citrus gall wasp galls - they're beginning to swell up now.  You've got a window of opportunity over winter to cut off affected branches while the larvae are developing inside the stems.  The Ag Department say that up until end June you're OK to throw these off cuts into your green bin; as the larvae will not survive.  In a few months time once they're more fully developed, the advice is to burn or solarise the galls to make sure that the larvae don't emerge to begin another cycle.  The advice is NOT to bother using the potato peeler method - this is too hit & miss.  And remember in Spring you could try Clay Spray to help prevent egg laying in the branches.
• Plant late Winter/Spring bulbs - the Jonquils, Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinth, Snowdrop (etc) bulbs will all be available soon. Plant them for some lovely colour and scent in the garden - often when there's little else around in the cooler weather. Improve soil with our General Soil Builder & Concentrate dug through prior to planting. 
• Plant a fruit tree! Bare rooted trees won't be available for a couple more months yet (many good nurseries have an order list - so contact them and get on it!). But it's a good opportunity to plant potted trees or evergreen fruit trees like Citrus - Autumn is a fabulous time to do so.
• Feed your lawn! Once the weather cools down you're maybe a bit too late - but the weather is still warm so give your grass a light feed or top dress now - it's as great opportunity to do it before rains come.  Come and grab a trailer load or have some delivered for the best lawn in the street!
• Sow your spring flowering annuals from seed. Poppies, Sweet Peas, Stocks, Aquilegia, Alyssum, Nasturtium - just for a few - to give bees & beneficial insects some food! Also things like Borage, which grows very easily at this time of year and is a great plant if you've got a bit of room. It can grow about 75cms x 75cms at least - but is such a lovely Bee plant to have!  We've got good stock levels of seeds for many of these flowers, so come on in soon!
• Watch for slugs & snails - as soon as we have some rain these little guys get really active in our gardens.  Make your own traps from beer, or select one of the least toxic iron based pellets to use - we have Multiguard and Protect-Us (Certified Organic) pellets in stock.
• Get your Winter vegies in ASAP. Check out healthy seedlings as a faster option to be harvesting sooner. Winter seedlings are now starting to come through - we get a delivery fresh every week of organically grown vegetables in biodegradable pots, ready to pop into your prepared garden and grow! We've also got plenty of Winter vegie seeds in stock - start some seed now for your successive crops to follow.
• You can cut down on watering your indoor plants now, as the seasons are changing. Do check out the moisture in your pots before watering; most indoor plants are killed by overwatering (not under watering) so you're often best to let the soil dry out just a little bit before watering again.  Got things to repot?  Have you tried our Indoor Potting Mix?
• Harvest your Sweet Potatoes - dig around for the tubers. Plants will slow down and potentially die back a little over winter (if you have them in a cooler spot) so make the most of the tubers you have grown. Get some more slips growing to start again in the Spring. See our fact sheet on propagating sweet potatoes here.
• Depending on where you are, it might be almost time to cut back asparagus and prepare beds for winter dormancy with a big load of good compost. Plan on doing this sometime in the next month.
• Cut back Lavender, Geranium (and other summer flowering perennials). Use the off-cuts for cuttings & see if you can grow new plants for free!  We've got a fact sheet on propagating from cuttings here.

What to Plant NOW

With Autumn conditions barely here...  there's loads of opportunity to plant your Autumn/Winter crops.

Do check out our FREE downloadable planting guides for Perth (see link here) - but here's a quick list of vegies & herbs to try now:

Artichoke (Globe), Asian Greens, Beetroot, Beans (Bush & Broad), Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Coriander, English Spinach, Garlic, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mint, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Radish, Silverbeet, Snow Peas, Spring Onion, Swede, Turnip.  (Pictured right - homegrown carrots & turnips.  Homegrown carrots are rarely perfect to look at but always delicious with a real taste!)

Currently we still have stock available for Purple Stripe & Rojo Garlic, Elephant Garlic, and I'm excited to say that.....
SEED POTATOES HAVE ARRIVED!

Unfortunately this year I have been unable to source Certified Organic potatoes; the grower we've used for years has sold up and his farm is no longer producing them.  However, we have got a lovely range of local (Albany/Manjimup) disease free seed potatoes and some interesting varieties; including Avanti, Delaware, Norland, White Star, Prince of Orange & Kipfler.

If you'd like some 'how to' info on growing garlic or spuds - click on these links: POTATOES & GARLIC - if you've never grown them before, it's definitely worth having a go!  You don't need heaps of space, and the flavour of home grown is unbeatable!

Remember - there's HEAPS of free information, tips & growing guides right here on our website; please feel free to share in your social media groups! (And tag us in your garden photos!)

Nematodes

At the end of summer, when people are replacing spent summer crops, they're often surprised to discover lumpy growth on their plants and learn of the presence of nematodes in their soil.

All about Nematodes

Nematodes are microscopic worm like creatures that live in soil. In fact, they are the most numerous multi-celled creature on earth, found on every continent. The mere mention of them strikes fear into the heart of most gardeners in Perth – however the reality is that many nematodes are actually beneficial and in fact an essential part of healthy soil biology.

Many nematodes feed on bacteria, fungi, algae, small invertebrates and other nematodes. However there are a few varieties which feed on plant roots. They lay their eggs in the roots, and as they hatch and numbers grow, they deprive the plant of moisture and nutrients and the plant shows signs of yellowing, stunted growth, and may die.

Root knot nematodes thrive in sandy soils, and prefer warm conditions. Areas with long, dry summers and short winters suit them well; so they love the Perth climate!

Identification

If you are concerned you MAY have root knot nematodes, the only way to be sure is unfortunately to rip out a plant and have a look! There will be warty lumps along the root surface. Be aware that nitrogen fixing species (peas, beans, legumes) have nitrogen fixing nodules on their roots, which can sometimes be wrongly suspected of being nematodes.  (Pictured right/below are nitrogen fixing nodules.)

So you think you've got root knot nematodes?  How did they get there in the first place?

Root knot nematodes can enter your garden through various means:

• Infected Plants: One of the most common ways nematodes enter gardens is through infected plants. Nematode eggs or juveniles can cling to the roots or soil of plants brought into your garden from nurseries or other sources.
• Contaminated Compost, Soil & Mulch: Nematodes or their eggs can also be present in contaminated soil & soil amendments. If you introduce soil from other locations or reuse soil from previously infested areas, you may inadvertently introduce nematodes into your garden.
• Infected Tools: Garden tools and equipment that have come into contact with nematode-infested soil can transfer nematodes to your garden. Be sure to clean and sterilize tools properly, especially if you've been working in an area with known nematode infestation.
• Infected Water: Water can also carry nematodes. If you use untreated water, it may contain nematodes that can infect your plants.

The good thing is there ARE things that can be done.

If you have root knot nematodes in your garden, it is usually a symptom of the soil’s condition, and shows an imbalance in soil biology. Nematodes usually live in the top 30cms of soil, and eggs can survive for a few months in fallow ground. However if you plant in a crop which the nematode’s don’t feed on, and leave it for some months, the nematodes will starve.

The first thing to do is to incorporate more organic material into the soil. Lots of it. Animal manures are beneficial, especially chicken manure, because the nitrogen content stimulates conditions that are not ideal for the nematodes. There is also some evidence that raising pH (which fresh manure will do) will also help with nematode control.

Adding organic material also helps alter the balance of soil biology, and will encourage other nematode species to build up numbers that will then prey on the root knot nematode. Remember the organic gardener’s mantra; feed the soil! Unfortunately this is never a ‘once off’, but your garden will benefit hugely from regular (at least yearly) generous top ups.

Adding clay to your sandy soil will also make a huge difference.  If your soil holds more moisture, conditions are less suitable to nematodes and overall your plants will be more resilient too. Ask us about Cassies Clay - our kaolin clay blend that makes a great soil amendment.

Chitin is a protein-like substance found in the exoskeletons of crustaceans.  It's also in the larval shell of the Black Soldier Fly - and plenty of it in our Sassy Frass product!  Chitin assists plants build stronger cells and encourages microbiology that can out compete root feeding nematodes.

Soil drenches like Neem Oil and Hydrogen Peroxide (use 3% hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 4 tablespoons to 600mL of water) can kill off nematodes too (as well as fungus gnats in your indoor plants) - but be aware soil drenches like this will also impact beneficial soil biology.  The trick to stop the damage to your plants is to bring the soil back into balance so that natural predators of root feeding nematodes can build up in the soil.

Other things to address:

Crop Rotation
Certain types of plants are particularly susceptible to root knot nematodes. Tomatoes are one. Many types of vegetables are susceptible (carrots, peas, beans, capsicum), as are grape vines, roses, and some stonefruit. The practise of crop rotation is beneficial - see our fact sheet here.

Brassicas (cauliflower, broccoli, kale, cabbage, mustard [mustard greens pictured right], kohl rabi, turnips, brussel sprouts, bok choi, radish, rocket, mizuna, collards) actually emit a substance into the soil that kills root knot nematodes, so if you have an infestation, plant out members of this family thickly.  This is called 'bio fumigation' - allow plants and roots to break down into the soil for best results - but the best thing is you get to enjoy a crop while 'fixing' your soil.

Green Manure Crops
Green manure seeds contain members of the brassica family and have the added benefit of adding a large amount of organic matter once it has been slashed and returned to the soil. We sell green manure seed packs @ GLSC.  Green manure works on two fronts - providing brassicas AND a range of additional organic matter to enrich the soil. 

Marigolds
African and French marigolds both exude a substance into the soil which will kill root knot nematodes. However they must be planted thickly (one or two flowers dotted around your vegie garden simply won’t be enough) and left in the ground for at least three months to be effective

Molasses
Using approx. 2 tablespoons of molasses per litre of water (dissolve when the water is warm), apply this to the nematode infected soil with a watering can. (Note: I have read varying quantities recommended – even up to 1:4 molasses to water ratio!) Molasses is available in many forms. Look for the least refined and most organic possible. We do often have it in stock (call us to check), or you could try health food stores or stock feed suppliers, but you may need to buy larger amounts.

Molasses works by increasing the food source for bacteria in the soil. It changes the balance of bacteria/fungi/nematodes in the soil biology, and this may not necessarily be a good thing. Earthworms can be adversely affected also. Use this treatment sparingly and as a last resort.

(Note: Molasses is advocated by some as a regular soil additive. For plants that prefer a bacterial dominant soil biology (eg. Turf/grasses) this may be the case. It would be beneficial when planting a new lawn, or when trying to revitalise a struggling one for instance. However we wouldn’t recommend it for shrubs and trees as woodier plants benefit from a more fungal dominant soil biology.)

Solarisation
Leaving bare soil covered with plastic weighted down at the edges will work to ‘cook’ the soil and kill nematodes. Of course, it will also affect beneficial soil biology the same way. For bad infestations, turn through the soil every few weeks to ensure the maximum exposure to sun & heat throughout the top 30cm layer. Areas left like this for a few months, particularly over summer, will have less problems in future seasons. Just remember to re-inoculate the soil with lots of healthy biology – use lots of compost (and ideally clay!) to dig through before re-planting.  Pictured below is a microscopic shot of a predatory nematode in soil - one of the good guys you want in your soil!

What to do with infected plant material

Firstly, ensure all roots are dug up and not left in the soil. Very hot composting methods (55°c+) will destroy root knot nematode eggs, but if you are uncertain that your composting methods will do the job, then cut off the roots and dispose of by burning. The tops of infected plants are fine for composting.

Nematodes don’t move a huge distance on their own – it is thought only a metre or so. Practising good hygiene (being careful not to distribute infected soil or root material on garden tools or by careless digging) and selective planting, crop rotation and soil improvement methods, you should be able to control their numbers so they do not have such a devastating effect on your crops.

What is a Miyawaki Forest?  (And where can we put one!)

I would hope a large number of our customers are acutely aware of the need for biodiversity and increasing urban tree canopy coverage in Perth.  Given we have the lowest tree canopy coverage of any Australian capital city (16% and shrinking) and the tree loss that is happening around us following our very hot summer, and pests like the PSHB, we need to think of ways we can improve the livability of our environment - for humans and animal species alike.

Recently I read an article in a UK gardening magazine about an organisation called SUGi (click on link to see their website) which uses the Miyawaki method to green urban spaces - not just in the UK, but all over the world.  So what is a Miyawaki Forest?  I'm glad you asked!

Dr Akira Miyawaki (1928-2021) was a Japanese botanist and plant ecologist who studied native Japanese plants & ecological systems.  He was acutely aware of deforestation and the effects on nature. (His story is quite interesting if you wish to read more about him!  He went on to study and work with many scientists around the world.)  In the 1950's & 60's (leading on from the industrialization of Japan following on from WW2) pollution was having huge impacts on the health of the Japanese population.  Government and industry began looking at ways to improve air & water quality and in 1971, industrial giant Nippon Steel appointed Dr Miyawaki to head an environmental division.  This lead to widespread planting projects; the Japanese government in 1973 then brought in a new law stating that factories over a certain size had to allocate 20% of their total land into green areas.

The concept behind these large scale greening projects involves DENSLY planting areas with a number of plant species - including 3 or 4 tree saplings per square metre.  The success lies in researching LOCAL species that would naturally co-exist and will suit the site.  Soil preparation is key to ensure that the structure and biology can support establishment of the plants.  The soil is mulched heavily and maintained (weeded) for the first three years - then left to its own devices.

The plants are thought of as a community - a strata of heights and plant types that will work together (like a permaculture guild, right?) to support each other.  This tends to support wider diversity of insects and animals, too.  Selecting the right plants leads to quicker establishment.  Miyawaki forests grow quickly - creating pioneer forests in 20-30 years (where natural revegetation could take 100's of years).

How big is a Miyawaki forest?

The concept is to utilise small and unused areas around our urban environments.  Parks, carparks, railway embankments, odd pockets of  'wasteland', private back yards, community gardens, areas around housing estates, schools - just about anywhere.  SUGi's smallest area they've planted was 3m2 and included 10 trees!  Because the area does need maintaining for a few years - the smaller area, the easier it is to look after.  Of course, conditions here in Perth would mean that watering for at least the first summer is likely to be required. 
Australia's first Miyawaki forest is located in Padbury, and since then a number of other primary schools have been involved in the program, led by WA researcher, Dr Gray Coupland. See article here for more information.  The projects she's lead in schools are mostly100m2 (10m x 10m) areas and a couple others have reached 200m2.

The real key to success is PLANT CHOICE and soil preparation.  While planting trees is fabulous, you really need to consider the appropriate tree for the site.  Nobody will thank you if in years to come trees damage buildings or services.

So next time you're driving around your neighborhood, look at all those vacant spots with new eyes.  Could you envisage a Miyawaki forest there instead of barren ground?  Perhaps with courage and imagination we can make a difference.  Carbon Positive Australia is looking for community input to shape an Urban Greening Strategy for Perth & Peel regions by 7 June 2024.  Please click on this link for more info on Miyawaki Forests and to provide feedback for the WA Government & the strategy. 

If you would like to explore further, have a look at:

TEDtalk Subeendu Sharma (approx. 4 minutes) and also Dr Coupland's website:  Pocket Forests WA and Instagram

VIP Special Offer

Sassy Frass!  You may have seen this product in store - it's one of our secret ingredients in our mixes but it makes a fabulous soil additive on its own.  If you haven't tried Sassy Frass in your garden, it's our VIP special this month so now's the perfect opportunity to give it a go!

What is Frass and why is it so good for gardens?

Frass is insect manure (From Black Soldier Fly - farmed for their role in processing organic waste); and like any other manure, it's a concentrated source of nutrients depending on the original feedstock of the animal (or insect).  There are two standout features of frass.  One is it promotes beneficial soil fungi quickly - and small quantities of frass make a difference.  Fungi is one of the harder/slower forms of microbiology to encourage in our gardens.  It forms an underground network that allows plants to not only forage for nutrients and water, but to communicate with each other.  Fungi is delicate and is easily destroyed by digging in the soil (hence the value of no-dig gardening, once you've worked initial improvement into the soil); and is also rarer in our sandy soils which struggle to hold the moisture fungi needs to thrive.  We've found by looking under the microscope, mixes we've made incorporating frass have higher fungal populations.

The other interesting thing is that as the larvae grow, they shed their skins.  Insects (and some sea creatures) that have an exoskeleton for protection produce a protein like substance called chetin (pronounced "Kite-in") - used by fungi in its cell walls.  Plants have an interesting relationship with chetin - they have receptors that are thought to detect fungal and/or insect attack by 'sensing' the chetin, so they start to act defensively - thickening cell walls to deter attack.  This strange reaction is actually beneficial - stimulating stronger growth that is less susceptible to pests and disease and creating more robust plants.

A 1kg pack of Sassy Frass normally retails for $19.95.  This month for VIP's the price is reduced to $14.00.  If buying online, you'll need to log into the Members section to find the special pricing and add it to your shopping cart.  In store - please ask our team member to apply the members pricing.
Valid until COB Tuesday 30th April 2024.

Photo Competition Winner

Thank you to Sharon from Glen Forrest who sent in a couple of photos via Facebook messenger recently.  She had this to say about her garden: 

"One photo is of blue berries in a crate using your blue berry mix.  The other is a shady garden bed where general mix was part of the soil used.  I made the garden bed myself. Love my green garden and my frangipanis and vegetable gardens best."

Thank you Sharon for sharing your projects!  You've won a $50 store credit to spend with us.

Remember - someone is drawn at random every month to win - so it could be YOU!  Send us in your picture/s of your Autumn gardening projects with a brief description of your garden and what you're growing and maybe you'll be our next winner.  Photos can be emailed (use 'photo competition' in the subject line of your email) or sent in via Messenger if that's easier.

Retailer Update

Please support your local independent retailer who supports us! The specialist retailers listed here will be happy to give you gardening advice and help you with our products - please call to check what lines they carry as they can't stock all of our products (but may be willing to get stock in for a custom order - if you ask nicely!). Some of these fabulous retailers also offer a home delivery service (marked with *)  - so why not go local?  (Please contact the store directly for details.)

Bar Botanik - North Perth 9227 6758 (Indoor Potting Mix & Aroid Mix only)
Daisy Field Organics - Fremantle
Garden Elegance - Subiaco 9381 2197 (lovely Sarah pictured right!)
Guildford Town Garden Centre* - Guildford 9279 8645
Harbour Plants*- South Fremantle 0439 967 034
Hydroponics Guru (Living Soil only) - Wangara 0430527575
Kambarang Garden Centre* - Bentley 9458 5944
Lighthouse Fruit Tree Nursery - Parkwood 0411 166 034
Miaflora - Inglewood 9343 6334
Newstead Outdoors* - Greenwood 9334 6334
Nibali Stockfeed* - Hamilton Hill 9433 2211
Richo's 4 Hydro - Joondalup 9301 4462
Stanbee Stockfeeds* - Barragup 9581 2390
Supreme Plants - West Swan 0499 887 275 (Blueberry Mix only)
Swan Valley Station - Swan Valley 0427 371 001
Tass1 Trees - Middle Swan 0419 988 344
Urban Revolution* - Victoria Park 6102 1068
Utopia Nursery - Bullsbrook 0455 659 622
Waldecks Kingsley* - 9309 5088
Waldecks Melville* - 6317 0939
Waldecks Stirling* - 9254 6730
Zanthorrea Nursery - Maida Vale 9454 6260 (pictured right)

Ardess Nursery (Albany) 9842 9952
Australind Landscaping Supplies 9796 1720
Boyup Brook Co-op (Boyup Brook) 9765 1001
Extracts Landscaping Supplies (Toodyay) 0417 202 718
Great Northern Rural Services (Geraldton) 9964 1274
Hillview Garden Centre (Bridgetown) 9761 1672
Margaret River - Nutrient Ag Solutions 9758 7677 (Premium Potting Mix & Compost)
Mitre 10 Margaret River 9757 2455  (Square Foot Mix & Veg Concentrate)
Naturaliste Landscape Supplies (Busselton) 9754 8081
Soils Ain't Soils (Busselton) 97515 322 

THANK YOU for being part of our Green Life family!  We hope to see you in store soon.  Check out our newsletter next month & stay up to date with our Facebook and Instagram pages for announcements, stock arrivals and general good gardening vibes!