Welcome to February!

It's the Noongyar season of Bunuru - the hottest part of the year.  And - as always - it's STINKING HOT as schools go back!  We've had a hot summer so far; and it's always a struggle to keep a Perth garden thriving under these conditions; although it's easier once plants are established in well prepared soil, and ensuring they receive regular water, and they're well mulched! The heat adds additional stress to plants - meaning that insect pests often seem to be worse too - chilli thrip and spider mites seem to be quite bad at the moment.  A lot of people have been reporting it's a bad year for tomatoes so if yours are struggling along and still fruiting, you're doing well!  I have seen photos of fabulous crops too - so I'm happy that some have had success.

Speaking of garden pests, I'm sure you're aware of the tree devastation spreading around Perth caused by the Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer beetle - and more importantly, the fungus it spreads and 'farms' as a food source for its larvae.  The fungus causes disease in the trees, stopping the ability for the tree to take up water; causing branches to die (and drop) and ultimately causes tree death.  Read more below - there are preferred host trees; and the Ag Department is asking if you have these trees in particular to inspect them regularly and to report any suspected issues.  This little introduced pest could mean that many beautiful mature trees throughout Perth need to be removed; and considering we already have a heat sink in much of suburbia, this is devastating news for the quality of life in our city and Parks, and for the impact on habitat for wildlife.  More than ever we need to consider planting site appropriate trees ASAP.

While this is very sad news, as gardeners we can all do our part to keep our patch alive and green - and as we slowly head towards Autumn the timing is perfect to consider your garden projects & plantings.  We're here when you need us for advice and great products!

See you soon!

Linda & the team @ The Green Life Soil Co

In this newsletter:

Jobs for the February Garden
What to plant NOW
Top tips to keep your garden thriving in February
Bokashi composting
Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer - the threat to our beloved trees
VIP special offer
Photo competition
Retailer update

Jobs for the February Garden 

• Plan & prepare! Consider what your priorities will be for Autumn planting, and start gathering what you need to improve the soil. Do your research on crop rotation & companion planting now, so you can work to a plan as the season rolls on. (Click on the highlighted links to take you to our free fact sheets.)
• Check your compost. Is it cooking nicely, and is it/will it be ready for Autumn planting? If it's dry - turn it & wet it through ~ and keep it up over the next few weeks to make sure it's good to go. With moisture and attention, it will break down quickly.  New to compost? Check out our fact sheet here. 
• Looking for a new way to grow your winter vegies?  Consider a wicking bed - they take out some of the stress of growing in summer.  Check out our fact sheet on planning a new garden.
• Get your winter vegies growing from seed. See 'What to plant now' below for ideas of what you can start off. We recommend our Certified Organic Seed Raising Mix and our range of heritage, organically grown seeds to get you started!  We have a large range of non-hybrid heirloom seeds available - with more stock coming in regularly.  Go through what seeds you have, and make a list of what you'd like to try this season.  See our free fact sheet on growing from seed here.  
• Get ready to fertilise your fruit trees late summer/early autumn. Stone fruits have nearly finished for the season, but are still actively growing; so before they go dormant for Winter, feed them up soon with a good organic fertiliser to encourage healthy growth & crops for next year. Fertilise citrus too - make sure you water well before & after fertilising, and top up mulch if necessary. They're shallow rooted and will appreciate mulching and regular watering. Grow Safe is a WA made slow release fertiliser with trace elements that we recommend - pictured right.
• Propagate! The warmer months of the year (while plants are actively growing) is a good time to try your hand at tip cuttings for many shrubs; including natives. Cuttings don't need to be fertilised until they've grown roots, but they do need regular moisture in the soil. It's a balance between keeping soil too wet (as rot & fungus can be an issue) and too dry ~ but it's worth having a go. See our fact sheet here.
• Protect & persevere. The hot weather isn't over yet, so do keep an eye on the forecast and on really hot days provide some temporary shade (if you haven't got anything more permanent sorted for your garden). Your finger is a convenient moisture meter - use it! Check the soil moisture below the surface from time to time and treat any particularly water repellent areas if plants are suffering. (GLSC now has moisture meters in stock if you're chasing one!)
• Green manure. If you've got a summer crop that's spent; whack in some green manure; just make sure you water it well so it can germinate & grow quickly... then chop it back into the soil just before you do your Autumn/Winter planting. The sooner you can get it in, the more 'green' organic matter it can produce for you. We sell 1kg packs - enough to treat about 20m2. (Pictured right.) Check out our fact sheet here.
• Worry about your worms!  Hot weather can overheat the bedding material in your worm farm and stress your worms.  The optimum temperature for worms is around 24°c - so make sure your worms are in a protected spot!  Adding water may not help (although obviously your worm farm shouldn't dry out) - prepare for really hot days & heat wave conditions by filling an old milk or juice bottle with water, and putting it in the freezer overnight.  In the morning, just pop it into the top layer of your worm farm, and replace the lid. The cooling effect as the water thaws will create a cool spot that the worms will gravitate to.  Have a couple of them in rotation - swap them out each day.  Don't over feed your worms - they slow down feeding in hot conditions, so excess scraps will go rancid quickly.  See our fact sheet on keeping worms & worm farms here.

What to Plant Now

There's still time to try for a crop of quick-growing summer vegies if you're keen, plant now & plant from seedlings!  It does depend on whether Summer warmth continues into April - but it often does. Choose smaller cropping varieties towards the end of the season (eg. Sugarbaby Watermelon, Golden Nugget Pumpkin) - the theory being the smaller fruits mature faster. Things to still plant now include: Beans, Beetroot, Capsicum, Carrot, Celery, Chilli, Cucumber, Eggplant, Leeks, Lettuce, Pumpkin, Rockmelon, Silverbeet, Sweetcorn, Sweet Potato, Tomato, Watermelon, Zucchini.

The basket of produce pictured here is from Green Life's front garden!  It's been producing beans, chillies and tomatoes for weeks!  Eggplants and pumpkin are just starting to come on .

If you're not ready for autumn planting but not wanting to nurture another summer crop - consider a green manure crop to grow quickly and turn into the soil before your winter seedlings go into the ground. 

Lots of people are asking for Garlic & Seed Potatoes already.  It's a little early to be planting them just now - but we've just received stock of locally grown Elephant Garlic, and the Italian Purple & Rojo should be with us in a couple of weeks. Potatoes will be a bit later, but watch this space for updates - we'll keep you posted soon!

Your slow growing Brassica crops need to be planted (from seed) as soon as possible. Brussel Spouts can struggle in our warmer climate; but if you're in the hills or have the perfect spot - if you're wanting to give them a try - now's the time to start them. Cauliflower and Cabbage also do well if you get them off to an early start. Keep them well watered and protected from harsh conditions.

If you're yearning for fresh greens but sick of trying to keep leafy things like lettuce alive, consider a batch or two of nutritious microgreens.  You can grow them in a sunny spot indoors or on a patio - and they're quick.  We have a range of microgreens seed available.  Check out our free fact sheet on Microgreens here.

For more 'when to sow' info for vegies & herbs - plus lots of other gardening info check out our FREE downloadable growing guides.  
And remember - we still have a limited amount of 2024 Moon Planting Calendars available (which make a great guide for when to plant!).  Come on in and grab one for yourself & one for a friend - they're $12ea or $10 ea for 2.

Top Tips to Keep Your Garden Healthy in February

• Top up mulch.  Check the condition & depth of your mulch.  Has it broken down?  Blown away?  Been dug up by your dog?  Exposed areas of soil need protection.  Check that the mulch you applied in Spring is still doing its job.  Top it up if necessary to help your plants get through the last of summer!  (Bonus - if you still have an effective layer of mulch, once the winter rains start, it will help slow down weed germination.)  Mulch can reduce soil moisture evaporation by around 80% - so it's vital!
• Use a soil wetter.  If you have areas of your garden that are water repellent (it's quite normal to have a few spots around the garden that seem to be stubborn!); a soil wetter applied with a hose on pack or watering can will help.  We recommend the eco-wetter products, which contain humic acids; a building block of soil health to promote microbial activity. Most of the cheaper products on the market are detergent based.  They work by stripping off the waxy coating on sand particles, but otherwise do nothing to build your soil.  If you're wanting to make your own natural version - track down some agar-agar powder.  This is a type of gelatin product that is made from seaweed.  It's available from Asian supermarkets in a sachet. To make a solution to use in your garden, dissolve two tablespoons of agar agar in two cups of hot water, and stir to dissolve. Gradually pour into 10 litres of tepid water, stirring continually.  Apply to soil immediately.  Agar agar will break down in 3-4 weeks, but is completely natural, cheap to make, and is perfect to use when establishing seedlings so they'll get off to a flying start!
• Soak pots.  If water is flooding out of a pot as soon as you're watering it, there's obviously issues with water absorption.  Take the pot, and plunge it in a bucket of water - maybe with a weak seaweed/kelp fertiliser added - and submerge the pot until air bubbles stop coming out of the soil.  You can leave the pot in the water for an hour or so - just don't forget completely about it for days or your plant will drown!  If your pot is too large to completely submerge, stand it in a tub to act as a large saucer to catch the water flooding out.  Spend some time watering it little and often over the course of a day and you should find the soil will begin to soak up the water from the bottom up from the water caught in the saucer.  Continue watering a little at a time and check by inserting a finger or trowel into the soil and see that the soil is damp throughout the profile.  (Again - using a soil wetter will help speed this up.)
• Water slowly, and to the base of the plant.  Use a gentle setting on your hose when hand watering to allow water to penetrate.  Drip irrigation and watering tubes around the base of your plants has the same effect; but make sure that (a) drippers are not blocked; and (b) there's adequate moisture getting to the roots.  A good soil should wick the water rather than allowing it to just drain away.  Biochar and clay will be hugely beneficial to hold water in the root zone.  
• Hot winds can cause extra transpiration of your plants - putting them under more stress.  On windy days, your plants may need hand watering, and consider a windbreak if your garden is regularly exposed to windy conditions.  Rather than a solid fence, consider a decorative screen, slatted fence, or layered gardens/shrubs to slow the wind and reduce its damaging effects.  As a short term solution, rig up a piece of shadecloth as wind protection (as well as sun!) 

Bokashi waste systems

You may remember in previous newsletters my news that Paul & I have downsized to a MUCH smaller suburban property.  It's taking some adjustments to get used to the limited space; and I had to leave my large converted fridge worm farms behind.  I used to use those for all of our composting waste; so after moving house I had to consider other options (besides throwing all of our vegie waste into landfill - we don't yet have FOGO in the City of Swan).  So I have decided to experiment with Bokashi Composting.

For those who may not be familiar with Bokashi, it is believed to have originated in Japan - the word bokashi apparently means "fermented organic matter" - or similar! Bokashi kits are readily available to get you started.  They consist of a sealed plastic bin and have a drainage floor and a tap.  They come with a liquid (in a spray bottle) or an inoculated grain to add to the waste.  These inoculants are made up of a range of beneficial microbes and fungi that begin to ferment the food waste.  When you add your food scraps, you add a little of the inoculant each time; so you end up with layers of microbes surrounding the waste.  The interesting thing about bokashi (which takes some adjusting to) is you can put anything in the system - including meat, bread, dairy - things you wouldn't normally add to worm farms or traditional compost bins.  You can add raw or cooked food scraps. The fermenting process smells a little like strong vinegar; there are no 'rotten' smells emanating from the system - so far at least!

Ideally, pack the waste down each time to add more scraps to remove air - it's actually an anerobic system, and airflow can lead to problems.  As the waste begins to ferment the scraps, it generates a liquid that you need to drain off (the kits include a tap for this purpose) every few days.  I've been surprised at the amount of fluid the buckets produce!  This liquid (which has a sour smell) can be diluted and used as a weak fertiliser in the garden, or poured down the drain - where it is said to aid the septic or sewage system by providing beneficial microbes.

The waste should be kept sealed in the bins for a couple of weeks before being buried in the garden (to discourage rodents) - where it will quickly begin to compost/decompose - adding beneficial microbes to the soil and feeding your plants.  The fermented waste is known as 'pre-compost' - a kind of not-quite-decomposed but definitely broken down to a degree. (Of course "trench composting" - burying your scraps directly into the garden - is also a thing; however the bokashi fermenting process does reduce the volume of waste, and promotes faster decomposing in the soil.)  White mould in the bokashi is a sign of the activity in the bin.

Because we seem to produce a lot of vegetable material waste, I filled up my first bin very quickly (about 2 weeks) so bought a second bin - so I'm using them in rotation.  Once both bins were full, I emptied the oldest one, rinsed it out, and reset to repeat!  So far, so good!

We have built two worm towers out of waste PVC sewer pipe (pictured below)*; drilling large holes around the base over a 30cm section and have buried those holes well below ground level. We use a plant saucer as a cap & this doubles as a birdbath/water holder for insects. I have emptied the bokashi waste into the worm tower, and will add a handful of worms within a week or two once the waste has decomposed further.  The bokashi system is quite acidic - apparently a week or so after burying the waste the pH levels normalise - I am yet to test this but will do so soon!  We have used pot saucers as 'lids' on the worm tower, which we top up with water in the hope it will be a source for insects and small birds.  For those with high pH soil, or trying to grow acid loving plants - the bokashi liquid is an ideal soil treatment to help lower pH.

I did find the bokashi smell emanated from the worm tower a bit - and as it's right outside the kitchen window, that wasn't ideal!  So we brought home some Charlie Charcoal and I added a small handful to the tower; and that has done the trick marvelously to stop the odour.

So I hope that our composting/recycling experiment will prove successful; I'll keep you updated once I've added worms and can monitor them - although being a worm tower, they are free to come and go as they please!

This should be a great solution for those of us in small spaces, and will help our garden AND the issue of waste going to landfill.  So far its taking me about 5 minutes every 2-3 days to drain off the bokashi liquid and check the buckets.   We fill a 10L compost kitchen bucket every day or two with scraps, and emptying this is more labour intensive - but would be the same effort no matter whether I used traditional composting, a worm farm or indeed stuffed it in a plastic bag in the rubbish bin!

While GLSC does not sell bokashi systems or the inoculated grains (at least, not yet!) contact our friends at Urban Revolution who are Bokashi experts and sell all the gear in their Vic Park store and via their online shop.

*sadly, the 'mushrooms' in the foreground are fake!

Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer
(Information & photos courtesy of the DPIRD website)

Nobody knows quite how this insect gained a foothold into WA - possibly furniture, pallets or wooden souvenirs, but this critter - originating from South East Asia - has now made an appearance in South Africa, America and Israel, damaging ornamental and cropping trees.  In both environmental and economical impact, it's huge. The spread is thought to only be in the Perth metro area currently (there's a quarantine zone marked on DPIRD's website, and restrictions are in place for moving trees and wooden materials out of this zone - so please be alert to this, and spread the news!)  According to DPIRD, they have inspected over 1.5 million trees on over 59,000 properties - the largest surveillance operation in their history - but with the spread of the beetle still going on, it's vital we do what we can to halt the spread.  Mature trees in Hyde Park, Perth Zoo and Kings Park have been removed or are facing removal; and that's just the tip of the iceberg when you consider trees on private property, or mature street trees.

The beetle brings with it a fungus; as it chews into the tree, it deposits fungi that it farms for its larvae.  It is this fungus that actually kills the trees - as it stops the tree's vascular system from pumping water and nutrients to its branches, leading to die back and ultimately death.

It seems to have a wide range of preferred host trees; and other non-preferred host trees.  This latter group don't attract large colonies, and the fungus may not kill the tree.  And it's not just trees - other common garden plants and even things usually grown as indoor/patio plants - are on the list (click here); and if you have any of these plants, please keep an eye on them.  Likewise, in your local parks, street trees, shopping centres - or even at friends/relatives houses - be vigilant.  DPIRD will assist with advice and removal if necessary.

Does tree pruning mulch present a risk?

While there is potential for many wood products to carry the pest, current thinking is that material that is less than 2.5cms in diameter is unlikely to contain insects and spread the pest.  Mulched woodchip is generally only about 0.5cms in thickness (pieces can be larger in length/width).  GLSC buys its woodchip mulch from reputable tree arborists, and while we trust their professionalism, there may be some risk; but this is the same with any woodchip mulch sourced locally.  There are restrictions on mulch movement outside of the quarantine zone, and also on transporting live plant material with trunk/stem diameter over 2cms.

If you are concerned, alternatives are using straw mulches, or a thin layer of lawn clippings to cover bare soil.

Do not transport firewood, and if you have trees with PSHB, don't burn the branches.  Fire causes the adults to disperse.  Currently, the disposal of infested material is done by chipping/mulching to particles less than 2.5cms diameter and solarising or HOT composting of the material.  See more information here.

What do I look out for?

Unfortunately the adult beetle is tiny - the size of a sesame seed.  The bore holes it leaves on trees is only about the size of a tip of a ballpoint pen, so you do need to look closely at your plants.  The DPIRD website shows photos of the holes, pictures of frass and weeping sap/discolouration - so these are all things to look out for. Only adult females can fly, but can spread about 400m to establish a new colony.  DPIRD has set up many test traps around Perth - please do not disturb these if you come across them!

Unfortunately no spray is effective against the insect, as the damage is internal in the trees.  No systemic fungicides appear to control the fungus either; as the vascular system doesn't function well enough.  I'm sure that scientists are actively looking at everything they can think of to assist!

DPIRD advises to keep trees well watered - stressed trees seem to be more susceptible to attack (similar to all plant pests!) 

What to do if you think you have seen evidence of PSHB?

Take a photo with a ruler or ballpoint pen next to the holes (as in the photo above) so the Entomologists can assess the size/scale.  Upload to the MyPest App (free to download) or if you're not that tech savvy, email or telephone the DPIRD's pest information service (9368 3080).  See their website for more information, a map of the quarantine zone and more photos to help you ID PSHB activity.

Photo Competition Winner

Congratulations to Angie of Marmion who we've picked as this month's winner of our photo competition! 
She had this to say:

Good morning Green Life,

I've been gardening this place for 3 years putting in bee friendly plants.

I've planted wild rocket (just one plant) and left it to go pretty wild (it's a about a 1/2 metre square), and unfortunately the attached photo doesn't show them up, but the wild rocket is absolutely covered in bees and is each day. 

Wanted to let you know as a suggestion for your readers (thanks very much for your newsletters by the way, I read them from top to bottom).

Kind regards,
Angie S.

We appreciate the tip Angie - and Wild Rocket is edible, and very deep rooted (great for recycling nutrients) and drought tolerant - so it's a great plant to use as a cover crop in summer when not much else will grow.  The peppery leaves are good to add to salads, and - like Angie said - the flowers are loved by bees and useful when there's not quite so much else in full flower around in the garden.

Angie has won a $50 store credit to spend with us.  Each month, we pick someone at random to be our winner - so next month it could be YOU!  Send in a photo (or photos) with some comments about your garden and/or what you're growing and you will be in the draw!  Send in photos via email or our Facebook page - marked 'photo competition'.

VIP Special Offer

While it's been super hot to be outside, I've enjoyed getting some patio plants tidied up, divided and repotted.  It keeps you 'gardening' but in a slightly more passive way!  Our new home has a courtyard area that we're slowly populating with greenery - it's nice to have an excuse to go plant shopping, I'm sure you'll agree!  As always, plants do better in great soil suited to their specific growing conditions.  Which is why we developed a special recipe for indoor potted plants.  Have you tried it yet?  We think it's great!

So this month, our VIP offer is on our 10L Indoor Potting Mix.  [We offer it in 3 sizes - resealable 10L (most popular) and 5L & 2.5L bags - for those who only have one or two small pots to fill and don't want a big bag of potting mix hanging around!]

As a VIP the 10L bag is $15.00 this month (normally $20.50).  That's $5.50 to go towards a new plant baby!!
Offer is available in store or online. If shopping online, you must be logged in as a Member to see the special pricing.

So grab some indoor mix today!  The offer is valid until close of business, Thursday 29th February (yes, it's a leap year!).

While you're in store, check out our other indoor plant essentials - dry kelp, chunky charcoal, worm castings, DE, perlite & more!

Retailer Update

Please support your local independent retailer who supports us! The specialist retailers listed here will be happy to give you gardening advice and help you with our products - please call to check what lines they carry as they can't stock all of our products (but may be willing to get stock in for a custom order - if you ask nicely!). Some of these fabulous retailers also offer a home delivery service (marked with *)  - so why not go local?  (Please contact the store directly for details.)

Bar Botanik - North Perth 9227 6758 (Indoor Potting Mix & Aroid Mix only)
Daisy Field Organics - Fremantle
Garden Elegance - Subiaco 9381 2197
Guildford Town Garden Centre* - Guildford 9279 8645
Harbour Plants*- South Fremantle 0439 967 034
Hydroponics Guru (Living Soil only) - Wangara 0430527575
Kambarang Garden Centre* - Bentley 9458 5944
Lighthouse Fruit Tree Nursery - Parkwood 0411 166 034
Miaflora - Inglewood 9343 6334
Newstead Outdoors* - Greenwood 9334 6334
Nibali Stockfeed* - Hamilton Hill 9433 2211
Richo's 4 Hydro - Joondalup 9301 4462
Stanbee Stockfeeds* - Barragup 9581 2390
Supreme Plants - West Swan 0499 887 275 (Blueberry Mix only)
Swan Valley Station - Swan Valley 0427 371 001
Tass1 Trees - Middle Swan 0419 988 344
Urban Revolution* - Victoria Park 6102 1068
Utopia Nursery - Bullsbrook 0455 659 622
Waldecks Kingsley* - 9309 5088
Waldecks Melville* - 6317 0939
Waldecks Stirling* - 9254 6730
Zanthorrea Nursery - Maida Vale 9454 6260

Ardess Nursery (Albany) 9842 9952
Australind Landscaping Supplies 9796 1720
Blossoms Nursery (Denmark) 9848 2014
Boyup Brook Co-op (Boyup Brook) 9765 1001
Great Northern Rural Services (Geraldton) 9964 1274
Hillview Garden Centre (Bridgetown) 9761 1672
Margaret River - Nutrient Ag Solutions 9758 7677 (Premium Potting Mix & Compost)
Mitre 10 Margaret River 9757 2455  (Square Foot Mix & Veg Concentrate)
Naturaliste Landscape Supplies (Busselton) 9754 8081
Soils Ain't Soils (Busselton) 97515 322 

THANK YOU for being part of our Green Life family!  We hope to see you in store soon.  Check out our newsletter next month & stay up to date with our Facebook and Instagram pages for announcements, stock arrivals and general good gardening vibes!