Hello & Happy New Year!  Welcome to 2024...

We're back at work @ Green Life and looking forward to a fabulous year!  Can you believe we've been at our 'new' premises for four years now?  Time has flown by; it's been a busy few years.  We closed between Christmas & New Year (as we have done the past few years) and the team all enjoyed the break - Paul & I moved house in early December so it was a nice opportunity to settle in and get used to our new environment.  It's a big lifestyle change for us having downsized to a much smaller block.  We'll be planning how to best organise our garden for Autumn planting, and we'll share the progress with you.

This year we had our staff Christmas dinner at The Commercial Hotel in Midland.  Kevin, the owner, is a customer; having set up a number of wicking beds using our soil out the back of the hotel for the kitchen garden.  They're made from recycled commercial fridges with shade cloth covers (pictured below, with Kevin). The venue is lovely - the building dates back to 1901 and has been beautifully renovated; and the food is great too!  If you're a local, definitely check it out sometime soon. 

Whilst we've had a few hot days, overall December was fairly kind to us weather wise...  Let's hope that January & February will also be kind!  But we do know there's likely to be some hot spells ahead just because it's Summer - so hopefully we can help with tips & advice to keep your garden alive over this time of year.

This month, we've got articles for you on TWO big garden pests; Army Worm Caterpillars (on the march!), and rattus rattus.  We know they're causing havoc right now so we hope the articles may be helpful.

In other news, GLSC will no longer be accepting Nespresso coffee pods for aluminium recycling due to a change of policy @ Nespresso. Our friends at Guildford Garden Centre are still currently taking on the pods, or you can arrange to post them back directly via a subsidised programme.  For more information, and other options for recycling, click here.
Perhaps you could look for compostable or refillable capsules. Our friends at Urban Revolution in Victoria Park can definitely help with more sustainable options!

As the summer rolls on, we hope you can stay cool, keep gardening and keep your plants happy.  Remember we've got gardening goodies to help - soil wetter, mulch and shadecloth are all in stock for you.

Just a reminder that we will be CLOSED on Friday, 26 January - the Australia Day public holiday.  
Re-opening as normal on Saturday 27th January 8.30 - 4.00pm. 

Potting Mix Update

We know our Premium Certified Organic Potting Mix has a lot of fans!  We do need to let you know that the formula you know and love may be a little different the next time you purchase some from us (or one of our wholesalers).  You may be aware that the amount of logging in WA has decreased; while this is great news for our old growth forests, the knock on effect has meant that more pressure is now on plantation timber.  This has impacted the landscaping and garden supply industry with availability of mulches, sawdust and bark products.  Up until now, it hasn't affected what we produce at GLSC - however the supply of composted pine bark we use in our Premium Potting Mix (and a couple of other mixes) has been disrupted of late.  This means we have had to look at alternatives to use in our mixes.  We have experimented with some recipe changes, and are confident that the results will still be there for your plants, but the mixes may look a little different. 

See you soon - from all of us @ The Green Life Soil Co

In this newsletter:

Jobs for the January Garden
What to Plant NOW
Garden Pests - Army Worm on the March
Rats.  Ideas to try to control them in your garden
VIP Special Offer
Photo Competition Winner
Retailer Update

Jobs for the January Garden

• Make sure YOU take care in the heat - slip, slop slap, and work in the cool of the morning or evening to avoid over-doing it in the heat of the day. Stay hydrated and take regular breaks.
• Don't over feed your plants with too much nitrogen (which will give you weaker, leggy green growth that will just wilt!) - use a balanced fertliser (a low-dose is best). Seaweed/kelp fertlisers are great to help plants cope with heat stress.  Water the roots, not the leaves - any water droplets can act like a magnifying glass and cause localised burn spots on the leaf surface.  Any fertiliser that's slightly oily will be worse.  (If plants have suffered from the heat, avoid the temptation to fertilise.  Trying to force feed the plant at this time is like if you're recovering from a tummy bug and a well meaning friend puts a rich, 3 course meal in front of you.  It just isn't helpful!  Plants need to recover before they can put out new growth.)
• Check your pot plants from time to time. Some that are more exposed than others will tend to dry out more - you may need to provide them with extra water or dunk the whole pot into a tub of water to allow soil to re-wet.  You'll see bubbles of air escaping initially which is perfectly normal.  Once this has stopped, the soil is full to capacity of water.  It's fine to leave them there for a few hours, but don't leave them sitting permanently in water (unless it's something that can cope with wet feet - like mint).  Plants need air in the soil, too!
• Mulch, Mulch, Mulch. Of course, you applied mulch in Spring, right? But it pays to check - particularly if you use straw mulches in your vegie garden - have they broken down and are they still being effective? Sometimes you may need to apply a little bit more for best results. If you have areas of the garden where no plants are growing, it is still wise to mulch the bare soil. This will help protect soil biology and aid with water repellency problems.
• Use a soil wetter.  These are a temporary fix - it's better to incorporate clay and/or biochar or Mineral Magic into the soil for a permanent solution.  But in the height of summer, particularly in existing garden beds where you don't want to disturb roots, a soil wetter will help in the short term and be a lifeline for your plants.  Use a good quality soil wetter (we like Eco-Wet or the new Veratin soil wetter) that isn't just detergent based; it will help build the soil structure.  In autumn, think about building soil health so that next summer it's easier for you (and your plants).
• Preserve the harvest. If you're overwhelmed with zucchini, tomato, squash, corn, cucumbers - experiment with drying, pickling, freezing or preserving them! There are so many excellent tutorials online to look at. Harvest your cucumbers and zucchinis when they are small. This will make sure they're sweet and tender. If lettuce and cucumber are bitter tasting - they need MORE WATER.
• Overhead watering and humid conditions can lead to increased fungal problems; watch out for powdery mildew in particular. It can be treated very early on (or even prevented) by a foliar spray of 1 part milk to 10 parts water. Spray all over the leaves (underside too) and repeat maybe twice a week and definitely after rain - and if possible, avoid overhead watering which can exacerbate the problem. You'll need to act early - once the disease has really taken hold it is hard to eradicate.  See article below for more!
• Check out your seed stock of autumn/winter growing vegies. Make a list of what is still viable, and what you will need to buy in fresh. Make a note of what crops you are growing now and read up on Crop Rotation - where are you going to plant your next round of vegies?
• Grab your 2024 Moon Planting Calendar - now in stock.  Check out our VIP special this month (see below!)

What to Plant NOW

It's the hottest time of the year in Perth making gardening extra challenging. Remember we've got 50% and 70% white horticultural shadecloth in stock - so get some protection up for your vegie patch and with a daily hand water you'll still be able to have a productive garden. Now's the time of year for some succession planting, time to think about starting winter brassicas from seed* (well, almost!), and time to think about your Autumn/Winter garden and what is going to follow on from your summer crops when they run out of steam.

Plants to consider growing now include: Basil, Beans (snake beans highly recommended for summer), Beetroot, Capsicum, Chilli, Carrots, Chokos, Cucumber, Eggplant, Ginger, Leeks, Lettuce, Malabar Spinach, Okra, Parsnips, Pumpkin, Radish, Rockmelon, Rosella, Silverbeet, Spring Onions, Squash, Strawberries, Sweet corn, Sweet potato, Tomatoes, Watermelon, Zucchini.

* Remember that Brassica vegetables (Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohl rabi) are best grown as Winter crops here in Perth. While they will grow in Summer, they are more susceptible to pests like Cabbage Moth & Cabbage Butterfly, so it's best to keep them under insect netting at this time of year. Keep up the water as stressed plants will bolt to seed, and ensure seeds & seedlings aren't allowed to dry out.  Brussel Sprouts are borderline in Perth - they thrive in cold weather; and usually our Perth Winters are too mild for them. Brussel Sprouts and Cauliflower are slow to produce - so for your best chance of success, start off seeds early so that once conditions cool down in Autumn you have advanced seedlings ready to go in the ground... I think it's a little too early YET - but check on your seed stocks so you're ready in a few weeks, if you want to try.  Of course - here's where it get's really tricky - you need to predict WHEN it's going to get cool enough; so starting a few seeds off every couple of weeks will be helpful.  

Wild Gaia Plants who grow the lovely range of seasonal & organic vegetable and herb seedlings for us are taking a break over the next month or two; so we won't have organic seedlings in stock until closer to Autumn.  Watch this space for updates as we'll let you know when things are likely to be coming back into stock.  We're also looking at options for pre-orders too; do you think this might be useful?

Check out our FREE downloadable 'When to Plant Guide' here - we've got one for vegies and another for herbs, in a handy month-by-month list.  (You'll need to sign in as a member to access our FREE downloads.)

Garden Pest - Armyworm

It's the time of year when these pests are on the march, and causing LOTS of damage in gardens all over Westeren Australia.  Armyworm are not actually 'worms' - they're the larvae of a moth - so they're technically caterpillars.  They're not new to Perth, but seem to have been more prevalent in recent years.  There are three existing species recorded in Australia - the newest variety (Fall Armyworm - originally from America) was discovered in Australia in 2020 (including Northern WA).  Dubbed 'The Coronavirus of Agriculture' - it has caused widespread crop damage in many parts of the world.  Given that the adult/moths can fly 100 - 200kms (and each moth can lay 100's of eggs in a single laying; producing many thousands in a lifetime) its easy to see how they have spread so widely and rapidly throughout the country.

They're called 'Army Worm' - because they literally turn up in battalion strength of numbers - and can cause a lot of devastation in a very short space of time.  They are more active at night, and in the day may hide in the soil or amid the plant's growing tips.  Often the first sign they're there is the destruction of leaves being chomped from the margins inwards - until you're left with just the stalks, and the tell-tale khaki dollops of their frass (poo).  They have a wide range of plant hosts - including lawns and vegetable crops.  If you suspect you have them - go out at night with a torch and you'll probably catch them red handed; as it were. 

Young caterpillars are a couple of centimetres long and lighter in colour.  As they grow (to about 4cms long and maybe 6mm across) they tend to be darker, and develop distinctive stripes that run down the length of their body.  When disturbed, the caterpillars curl up in a tight "C" shape.  They are smooth (not hairy) and their bodies are segmented.  Colours can range from green to dark brown.  The adult moths are a non-descript brown colour about 3-4cms long with a similar wingspan.

If you have Armyworm - you probably will know it - they do so much damage!  They tend to be most active in summer/early Autumn, so now's the time to deal with them if you have an infestation.

How to treat Armyworm

Once you've confirmed the presence of Armyworm, do your best to hand pick and squish.  Collecting them in a bag first makes it quicker and maybe easier for the squeamish.  You can make traps out of damp hessian bags, towels or pieces of carpet among affected plants for caterpillars to hide underneath. In the morning, collect caterpillars and either feed to the birds or place pests into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.  If you know they're affecting your grass, use a lawn roller to squash and kill caterpillars.  Soaking your lawn with buckets of soapy water will cause the larvae to emerge so they can be picked out by birds.

Encouraging birds to your garden is always helpful - they prey on the adult moths and caterpillars.  Lacewings and Ladybirds and parasitic wasps will also be helpful in controlling numbers; so it's important to tolerate a bit of damage rather than turn to chemicals immediately.  Encouraging biodiversity will always lead to a more helpful balance to keep pests in check.

If you MUST use treatments; Dipel is the best treatment; it is only effective on caterpillars.  It's a bacteria; safe for us and other animals and insects* that causes the caterpillar to lose it's appetite and die within a few days.  *Caterpillars that ingest Dipel are unable to support parasitic wasp larvae; so it will kill them too.

Other treatments to try are Neem Oil (disrupts the breeding cycle) and pyrethrum (insecticide).  There are progressively more heavy duty pest treatments out there - but we always recommend the soft approach first.

You can try using a mozzie zapper or lights with water traps to catch the adult moths.

Rats - the Perennial Perth Pest

Oh boy.  If we had a foolproof way to stop the damage that rats do in Perth gardens, we could retire to the Maldives tomorrow.  We are regularly asked for advice on the topic, or else have customers telling us about the damage rats have done to their crops.  It's disheartening and rats are difficult to eradicate; but as it's a subject that comes up often, we thought it's worth sharing what others have shared with us.

Please note that some of these ideas have worked for SOME people but NOT for others.  It seems random - but as the problem can be so extreme, it's worth trying things to see if they work for you.  We will be discussing ways to kill rats here - so if you find that offensive (I know it's an unpleasant subject) perhaps skip the rest of the article.  :-D 

Is it a Rat?

All Siberian Hamster jokes aside, one of the most common questions on social media in gardening groups is "Is it a Rat?"
Unfortunately rats (and mice) are found wherever there's human activity.  And although there are some native marsupials that are known as 'rats'; as much as we like to think the animals in our backyard may be some cute and endangered species - the reality is in suburbia, we are far more likely to encounter the common black rat "rattus rattus" (which by the way, isn't even black...  that's just what it's called!) or the other introduced brown rat.  Native rats tend to be forest dwelling creatures and we're unlikely to ever see one; there's some great resources online with good photos if you wish to delve into the topic (click here for some useful info). If you are really unsure, and hesitant to eradicate animals you have found, use a live trap and take the animal to be properly ID'd at a Vet clinic or wildlife rehab centre.  

The thing about rats is they are omnivores - eating basically anything; and they're prolific breeders.  They're social animals; groups of black rats usually consist of multiple females and multiple males. Breeding easily in summer and autumn, females can produce as many as five litters every year, with between five and ten young within each. Gestation ranges between 21 and 29 days and young rats are born blind but reach maturity within just three to five months.  This means that populations can expand very quickly - just TWO rats can produce 1,250 offspring per year; but if you multiply out the potential breeding of those offspring, the potential numbers are staggering; something like 15,000 rats! So if you see evidence of rat activity, act as quickly as you can.  It's also beneficial if you can speak with neighbours and put in a combined effort.  Rats will easily travel between properties which is part of the frustration. Keeping yards and sheds tidy and removing potential nest sites can keep numbers down; but it makes things much harder if you have neighbours who aren't on board.

Rats not only eat things in our garden, but in homes can chew plasterboard, electrical wiring, and leave dirty droppings everywhere.  Nobody wants rats in the ceiling or wall cavities scratching & squealing - and is there anything worse than the smell when a rat dies in the roof or wall of your home or office?  Yuk!

While it may be tricky, eliminating anywhere that rats gain access to your home (it can be a very small hole or gap) is the first thing to try.  Gap filler or wads of steel wool can help (rats would prefer to avoid chewing through it). Try to eliminate sources of food or water around the yard - clean up pet food, store chicken food in metal drums, and clean up fallen fruit.  Rats are attracted to chicken pens and bird aviaries - so finding ways to feed your pets fed and watered but not have food lying around is important.  

If you have compost bins outside, dig them into the soil and line the base/hole with metal/wire mesh which should assist in keeping rats out.  Desperate rats have been known to chew through metal mesh - but mostly this will help.

When it comes to methods of eradication, there are a number of options available to you; usually forms of trapping or baiting.

When it comes to traps, there are fast kill traps (considered the most humane) and live traps.  The problem with live traps is - what do you do with the rat?  It is NOT wise or kind to release the rat somewhere "safe" like local bushland.  You're potentially spreading an invasive pest to another region where it could outcompete native animals for food - inadvertently threatening the native wildlife population.  Just don't!  [Obviously if you have the potential to trap other animals, then live traps can be useful to ID and release non-target species.] While there are a number of ways to dispatch a rat you've caught in a live trap, the method considered to be the fastest/most humane (but undoubtedly distasteful) is 'blunt force trauma' - in less poetic terms - whack/crush their skull; unpleasant but fast.  You'll need to think ahead about what constitutes proper equipment to make it as quick as possible. Drowning is another option but takes longer and causes more suffering to the animal, but tends to be less stressful for humans (if you don't watch) which is why its commonly done.  Freezing is another option but again takes time so is less humane. Carbon monoxide poisoning is relatively fast, if you can work out a way to utilise your car's exhaust with a leak-proof bag/container.  (Please be careful not to poison yourself in the process.) 

Unfortunately rats are smart!  They will avoid traps if they're suspicious; often you'll only catch the young (and naïve).  But it's still worth a try!  Handle traps & baits with gloves to remove 'human' scent.  Place traps where you have seen rats traverse, or find the tell-tale dirty smears they leave behind on their trails.  Sometimes leaving a trap in position for a while will lull them into a false sense of security.  Just keep an eye on it lest you catch one you need to deal with.  You'll also need to experiment with the bait.  Peanut paste is a staple; also smeared animal/bacon fat from cooking.  Something that's difficult to be stolen off the trap and needs to be licked or nibbled for more chance of trap activation.  Sometimes you may need to switch baits and try something new (perhaps they learn to associate?).

Commercial poison baits are commonly available but do have their problems.  Secondary poisoning is a big killer of native animals (owls, lizards, etc.) and pets who may come across the sick/dying or dead rat and eat it - thus poisoning themselves.  If you do wish to use baits, look for products containing coumatetralyl as the active ingredient as it is considered much safer; as the amount of poison left in the rat is much less, should the rat be eaten by other wildlife or pets.  An excellent resource/list of safer baits can be found here: https://www.actforbirds.org/what-to-buy-and-avoid

A number of DIY baits are suggested on social media which include things like a packet of cake mix (any basic mix); or mixtures of flour/bicarb/sugar - the raising agent will swell in their stomach and cause the rat to die.  The same principle works with a mixture of peanut paste and plaster of Paris, and packaged/dehydrated mashed potato.  This method is effective, but as it will take at least several hours to kill the rat, is seen as a less kind way to deal with them.  These methods are considered safe for secondary poison risk however, as other animals can pass the set product should they eat it (which they probably wouldn't).

If you do use baits, remember to put them in places where pets, children and non-target animals (like Quenda) can't get to them.  Either fashion something to keep larger animals out, or secure them up high away from dogs/Quenda activity.

Other ways to deal with rats often discussed on social media include things like:

- peppermint oil, toothpaste, bay leaves, pepper, cloves - basically rats rely on their sense of smell to get around and find food, and don't like strongly scented oils or herbs.  Try adding peppermint oil to cotton wool balls and leaving them where rat activity is obvious.  Unfortunately it does require frequent applications as the smells will fade reasonably quickly.

- moth balls/naphthalene flakes.  Works for the same reason above - the strong scent.  Toxic to humans and pets, so keep it where kids can't get to it.  Relatively long lasting.

- ammonia.  The strong smell of ammonia is also a deterrent to rats; whether it's the strong smell or the fact that it's reputed to mimic the urine of predators (cats/dogs) - either way, rats aren't fond of it so soaking rags in ammonia, then stuffing them into an old tin can to leave lying around may be helpful.

-phenyl. Also strongly scented. (phenyl & ammonia can be found with cleaning products in most supermarkets).  Can be diluted and sprayed where rats traverse.

-eucalyptus vapor rub - smeared around areas where rats are known to transit. 

- used cat litter, cat hair and snake poop.  You're trying to tell the rats that predators are around - so some folks say this method works.  Someone I know reckons the snake poop (obtained from someone who has pet pythons) was completely ineffective.  And I don't know about you but I'm not keen on using my cat's dirty litter around my garden.  Sigh.

- electronic/sonic devices and sensor lights.  The jury seems to be out on these options.  There are people that swear by the effectiveness and others that say they're useless.  I guess you can only try them and find out for yourself.  Maybe some brands work; others don't. It may be a costly experiment to find out, more's the pity. 

- biodynamic peppering.  I have no experience with this; however biodynamic farmers claim the process of  'peppering' helps with plant, insect and animal pests.  It involves creating a preparation from the burnt skin of the target species and preparing it in a way that it can be spread over the area.  Sure - sounds a bit out there but we're talking RATS.  What wouldn't you try??  If you jump online there are YouTube videos explaining the process, so feel free to do your own research and report back! (Or you can learn more here.)

- exclusion barriers.  If you have fruit trees or productive vegetables, making collars from metal or protective cages/'bags' from mesh/wire is an option. It's expensive, and time consuming, but it may be the only way to gather a harvest!  At least barriers are non-toxic and safe for wildlife, and the wire can be stored and reused, so in the long term the cost may make it more viable. 

Often, it's a multi-faceted approach that will work best for you.  Clean up potential nest sites, eradicate food and water sources, use traps and safe(r) baits.  Monitor traps and baits regularly to ensure you're keeping on top of rebound populations (often you'll reduce a population for a while, but it will bounce back within months), and act as soon as you know there's rat activity.

In the US (and not yet available in Australia) there are baits that provide birth control for rats - rather than killing the rats, they greatly reduce the breeding effectiveness.  It sounds like a promising concept and perhaps soon we'll see something like this available to add to our rat control arsenal.

In the meantime, if you happen to have any other tried and tested methods to share - please let us know!  There'll be loads of Green Lifers out there who'll be RApT!!! 

VIP Special Offer

Have you got yourself a 2024 Moon Planting Calendar yet?  These arrived just before Christmas and we have stock available - so come on in and grab one while you can!

This month, our VIP special is the calendar on sale for $9.00 each (normally $12.00).

Available in store or online! 

The calendars have a key to help you determine the optimal time to plant leafy greens, fruiting & flowering plants, and root crops.  As well as times considered less fertile when jobs like composting & garden tidy ups should be on your list!  Produced in the Eastern States, it's very simple to deduct the 2 hour time difference (3 if daylight savings) should you want to get right down the the specifics of time of day the phase moves on.

The calendars also show the equinox & solstice dates, and always include astrological insights & interesting philosophy from the creator. Definitely a little quirky & decorative - I have a friend who says "no toilet door should be without one"...  so here's your chance!

Special available while stock lasts, so be quick!  To purchase online at the members price please log into the members section of the site. 

Photo Competition

Thanks to Brett Lyons who sent through some photos of his garden & produce (including PawPaw, Pineapple and Garlic!) before Christmas.  Brett lives in Maddington and is a keen gardener.

This is what he had to say about his garden:

"You got me inspired again, prepping for Summer.
I’ve done heaps of mulching, Pea Straw, WhoFlung & my compost heap on & into soil with Charlie C & water retention beads, and a good feed. Great haul of Garlic this year (5 varieties), new Pineapples just started, 1st Dragonfruit flowers are out. Passionfruit about to flower and still getting a couple a day from last crop.
Ton of Pumpkin & Spaghetti Squash over the place to share. Have been eating delicious heirloom Potatoes from you past few weeks, Purple Kumara."

Sounds fabulous Brett - keep up the fabulous work (and keep sending in those photos!)

Remember next month it could be YOU.  Email in your pics with the subject 'photo competition' and a brief few lines about what you're growing & doing in the garden.  Or, send in the pics via our Facebook page.  Each month we pick someone at random for a $50 store credit to spend with us - so hop to it!

Retailer Update

Please support your local independent retailer who supports us! The specialist retailers listed here will be happy to give you gardening advice and help you with our products - please call to check what lines they carry as they can't stock all of our products (but may be willing to get stock in for a custom order - if you ask nicely!). Some of these fabulous retailers also offer a home delivery service (marked with *)  - so why not go local?  (Please contact the store directly for details.)

Bar Botanik - North Perth 9227 6758 (Indoor Potting Mix & Aroid Mix only)
Daisy Field Organics - Fremantle
Garden Elegance - Subiaco 9381 2197
Guildford Town Garden Centre* - Guildford 9279 8645
Harbour Plants*- South Fremantle 0439 967 034
Hydroponics Guru (Living Soil only) - Wangara 0430527575
Kambarang Garden Centre* - Bentley 9458 5944
Lighthouse Fruit Tree Nursery - Parkwood 0411 166 034
Miaflora - Inglewood 9343 6334
Newstead Outdoors* - Greenwood 9334 6334
Nibali Stockfeed* - Hamilton Hill 9433 2211
Richo's 4 Hydro - Joondalup 9301 4462
Stackwood - Fremantle 9335 9835 (Potting Mix only)
Stanbee Stockfeeds* - Barragup 9581 2390
Supreme Plants - West Swan 0499 887 275 (Blueberry Mix only)
Swan Valley Station - Swan Valley 0427 371 001
Tass1 Trees - Middle Swan 0419 988 344
Urban Revolution* - Victoria Park 6102 1068
Utopia Nursery - Bullsbrook 0455 659 622
Waldecks Kingsley* - 9309 5088
Waldecks Melville* - 6317 0939 (pictured above/right)
Waldecks Stirling* - 9254 6730
Zanthorrea Nursery - Maida Vale 9454 6260

Ardess Nursery (Albany) 9842 9952
Australind Landscaping Supplies 9796 1720
Blossoms Nursery (Denmark) 9848 2014
Boyup Brook Co-op (Boyup Brook) 9765 1001
Great Northern Rural Services (Geraldton) 9964 1274
Hillview Garden Centre (Bridgetown) 9761 1672
Margaret River - Nutrient Ag Solutions 9758 7677 (Premium Potting Mix & Compost)
Mitre 10 Margaret River 9757 2455  (Square Foot Mix & Veg Concentrate)
Naturaliste Landscape Supplies (Busselton) 9754 8081
Soils Ain't Soils (Busselton) 97515 322 

THANK YOU for being part of our Green Life family!  We hope to see you in store soon.  Check out our newsletter next month & stay up to date with our Facebook and Instagram pages for announcements, stock arrivals and general good gardening vibes!